We already know what to expect when Bvlgari announces a High Jewellery collection. Big stones. Technical showpieces. A certain Roman drama in the way the pieces are imagined and built. But Eclettica feels different in scale and ambition. This is the house going all in on what it has always done best, pushing its design language further, sourcing exceptional gems, and building a collection that is intentionally expansive. More than 150 High jewellery creations form the core of it, alongside watches, one-of-a-kind bags and even fragrances. At the centre are nine standout pieces titled Capolavori, positioned as the most complex and expressive works in the lineup.
The idea behind the collection is straightforward. Bvlgari has always treated eclecticism as a working method rather than a theme. Rome itself works like that. Different eras, different artistic languages, all existing together and constantly influencing each other. Eclettica leans into that approach and builds on it with an unusually large number of transformable pieces and multimillion-dollar creations, showing how far the house is willing to go technically this season.
Once you start looking closely at the jewels, the scale becomes clear. Take the Seres Scarf High jewellery necklace, which reads almost like a piece of movement rather than a traditional necklace. Constructed in white gold with more than 1,180 individual components, the design was developed over about 1,600 hours of work. The piece drapes and shifts across the body, with sapphires and emeralds arranged in a woven pattern. A detachable brooch centred on a 31.90-carat sugarloaf sapphire from Sri Lanka can be moved along the necklace, giving the jewel multiple ways of being worn.
Gemstones drive much of the narrative in Eclettica. The Secret Garden necklace is built around a rare 26.65-carat Padparadscha sapphire, a stone known for its unusual mix of pink and orange. The rest of the design follows the character of that gem, with diamonds, onyx, purple sapphires and emerald cabochons arranged in a carefully balanced composition. According to jewellery Creative Director Lucia Silvestri, the stone was the starting point for the entire piece.
Another highlight, the Incontro Segreto ring, revisits the toi et moi format that Bvlgari has explored since the 1980s. Here it pairs a 7.85-carat antique pear-shaped diamond with a 5.42-carat Colombian emerald. The stones face each other across a minimal structure that allows their colour and clarity to carry the design. It is a simple concept, though executed with the level of precision expected at this end of high jewellery.
The Serpenti pieces in the collection continue to evolve one of the house’s most recognisable motifs. The Serpenti Infinia bracelet is centred on a custom-cut 7.49-carat diamond developed specifically for the piece. Around it, diamonds form the body of the serpent in a sequence that required more than 1,300 hours of cutting work alone. It reads more like a small sculpture than a conventional bracelet.
Then there is the Serpenti Imperial Heart necklace, which focuses attention on a historic 30.75-carat Golconda-type diamond that is said to have once belonged to a Maharaja. The stone forms the head of the serpent, held within a specially designed mounting and connected through 180 articulated elements that allow the necklace to move naturally on the body.
Architecture becomes another visible reference point in several of the Capolavori pieces. The Eclectic Embrace collar translates mosaic patterns inspired by Sammezzano Castle into a layered arrangement of diamonds, emeralds and onyx, centred around a 10.12-carat Colombian emerald. The Emerald Strata necklace takes a different route, focusing on vertical lines and structure, anchored by five sugarloaf emeralds sourced from Zambia after nearly a year of searching.
Eclettica does not stop at jewellery. The collection extends into High-End watches where gemstone work and Swiss mechanical expertise come together in pieces such as the Notte Stellata Diva watch, which interprets a Roman night sky through opal, sapphires and diamonds. The brand has also introduced one-of-a-kind bags with detachable jewelled elements that can transform into brooches or necklaces, as well as three exclusive fragrances developed around the artistic ideas that shaped the collection.
What makes Eclettica interesting from a fashion point of view is the scale of the statement. This is not a restrained High jewellery presentation. It is a large, confident collection that leans heavily into the house’s identity, from Serpenti to oversized coloured stones and intricate transformable designs. For Bvlgari, High Jewellery remains one of the strongest spaces for experimentation, and Eclettica is the brand putting that philosophy on full display this season
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